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Modification have not finished yet while the alloy wheels not changed. The more thin wall tires, the bigger alloy wheels, higher prestige.

This trend began to depart from the race that is quickly transmitted to the modification spaces. In the circuit, large alloy wheels with tire walls thin (low profile) and the tread width is very beneficial because car drivers become more agile and responsive on the corner.

Moreover, hardly changed the tire diameter, so no longer need to adjust the speedometer and odometer. Large wheels also appear to appear sporty and masculine. No doubt, the main factor driving this is the proliferation of this trend the community.

Changing the default factory alloy wheels (OE / original equipment) with a larger diameter is known as plus-sizing. In these terms then known repertoire of plus-one, meaning that adding one inch diameter alloy wheels from OE. Examples from a 16-inch 15-inch. Similarly plus-two, add two inches, from 15 inch to 17 inch, and so on.

Apparently according to Consumer Reports testing, consumer protection agency in the USA, plus-one proved to yield the greatest benefits in terms of Performance. Plus-two and so on just gives a little extra traction while driving comfort, hydroplaning resistance and traction dropped. Price to pay is also more expensive. So bigger is not always more profitable. Plus-sizing is not recommended for SUVs unless indeed an option from the manufacturer.

Therefore, if you’re satisfied with the handling and comfort driving your car, it would suggest to forget the plus-sizing. Faithful only with OE.

Risk Plus Sizing

If not, start by considering the risk. Tires with big wheels and low profile responsive ride on the road was smooth. Conversely hollow road / rough, the tire is not perfectly capable of damping. Driving so uncomfortable. Therefore the streets in this country still have to ‘understandable’, the most wise if plus-sizing, not too far from the OE tire size.
Not only eroded the level of driving comfort, plus sizing excess (plus two / three or more) also threaten the safety wheels. Consumer Reports Tests at plus-three plus two and end up with damage to wheels and tires.

Choosing Velg

If you know the risks, and remain ‘unwilling’ with OE tires, it was time to visit the tire store / modifier. They will offer wheels and tires that fit on OE tires. As a rule, the addition of 1-inch diameter alloy wheels, in the match by lowering the tire wall thickness of between 50-10 percent and the addition of the tire tread width of 10 millimeters. Make sure also speed rating and load rating of the new tires should be higher than the original tires. Please note, plus sizing tire diameters are always changing overalls. It is difficult to exactly match the OE. This will affect many things including the speedometer.

Check also the wheels are in the drill. Most wheels are made of aluminum or a mixture of aluminum and steel. The problem is their quality varies considerably. To check, start by asking how the wheels were made. Alloy forgings (forged wheel) the most powerful and most expensive. Pressure cast wheels are also sufficient, in addition to a stronger alloy wheels are also lighter than the print (cast wheel). This last alloy is made by flowing molten metal into molds.

After that check also his bolt pattern, does not fit with those of your car. So forget about the wheel-pit yearning heart that holes not match. Sellers may offer some kind of adapter that can outsmart the holes that do not fit this. Be careful, this second solution because this adapter will increase the tension in the bolts may loose when driving. Make sure the tires have offset the after-specification cars. Tire tread also peered stretchy whether grind liang ban.

Choosing modifier

Now check modifier that will change the tire. Choose which specialize in plus-sizing. Choosing an incompetent shop tire and wheel damage risk.

Make sure the warranty if not satisfied or no damage as the tire grinding wheel or speedometer screw hole.

Workshop is also equipped with a wheel aligned to prevent early tire wear. Similarly, the ability to adjust suspension system that must adapt to new legs

In driving, there is the term “understeer” and “oversteer”. Maybe you have or have often heard these two words. Just like what the symptoms of a vehicle, perhaps you have not experienced it. Or if ever, perhaps because you do not feel it does not know which one over, which is under.

Well, to understand it, can see the explanation below. Also, how to cope when experiencing.

Understeer
Symptoms tend to car straight, although the steering has been deflected. Commonly known as skid traction because the front is missing. If this was a panic-drivers-especially large potential for harm because the car out of the road.

How to cope :

1. Immediately slowed until traction vehicle back.

2. Do not add spin the wheel, or brakes.

3. Cut down on the accelerator gradually.

4. Reduce the steering wheel rotation.

Oversteer
The opposite of understeer, the rear tires lose grip. Consequently, the stern of the car to shift or twist.

The cause, most commonly we do braking when turning. At that time, the weight moves forward so that makes the rear tires less grip on power. Another factor for turning the steering wheel abruptly.

The danger, the car can be out of control and collided with something from the side. Meanwhile, the sides are not protected as well as front or rear.

How to cope :

1. Do not brake.

2. Do not move the position of the hands on the steering wheel.

3. Make a counter-steering or “reply to” steering wheel with alacrity, but not excessive.

4. Cut down on the accelerator (for rear wheel drive car).

5. Add just enough pressure on the gas pedal (for the front wheels moving car).

6. Move your eyes to the point of going to the intended

7. Be prepared to return the wheel to its original position

For motorists who drive a car with a Multi Information Display (MID) device can easily monitor the use of fuel. Then, how about the MID figures show that wasteful fuel usage? Least wasteful fuel consumption also depends on driving style, technical factors other than mechanical course.

Here are some tips and tricks that need to be done to reduce fuel budget:

1. Do not stomping.
   Pedal must be stable and gradual. If you step on the gas pedal abruptly, auto fuel that will be sucked into the combustion chamber is also growing. Meanwhile, at that time was still low engine rpm. Consequently not all that fuel into the engine room fire. Which is called a waste. Because no fuel coming out in the form of energy, but go wasted through exhaust.
2. Discover the engine RPM.
   One way to make an efficient fuel consumption is to change gear (transmission) the right, which is when the engine reaches maximum torque (maximum moment).Gearshift when cars were in need of torque (thrust force), should be conducted with respect to information about the maximum moment (maximum torque) of each car (usually in units of kgm / rpm). Meanwhile, if the vehicle is moving (where the thrust is not needed), the most efficient when driving with the RPM between 2500 until 3500 and with the highest gear.

   For example, technical data on the manual written book Maximum torque: 200Nm/3750rpm. This means that the highest moment of 200Nm occurs at the time of rotating machines as much as 3750 per minute.

   In this example, means that we should make the shift gear when the figure shows the range of 3750 rpm. Figures can be viewed at RPM tachometer located on the dashboard of a car.

   Figures RPM on tachometer very important note. To streamline fuel consumption, while speeding down the road. Keep the engine speed at the maximum torque range. Because, that’s when fuel supply is in accordance with the output from the machine.

   One habit that is often overlooked driver is: do not immediately adjust the gears after lowering speed (deceleration). After running hard and then suddenly put the brakes suddenly, you should also pass the shift gear to a lower position.

3. Measure the HC and CO.
   Whether or not extravagant consumption of fuel is also determined by engine components. Machine components that have a lot of wear / damage can cause incomplete combustion processes.To detect it, check the exhaust emissions. If the examination results show the value of HC (hydrocarbon) and CO (carbon monoxide) is too high, this is a sign of combustion in combustion chamber is not perfect (lots of wasted fuel).
4. Expenses and Activator.
   Another factor that determines the fuel consumption is a load and drive (drive vehicles). Increasingly heavy burden to be transported, their consumption will also increase. The definition of driving include: couplings, bearings (wheel), coupling (propeller shaft), axles, and wheels.

   When these components worn or damaged, would cause loss of power generated by the engine to push the car running. Meanwhile, fuel consumption remains large. Related to the wheels, use of large tires and wheels, including the factors that affect fuel consumption.

Here, other tips are also noteworthy:

1. Habits out of the office lunch / evening, preferably reduced. Bring lunch / delivery seemed better.
2. If traveling, take the family / colleagues that one purpose / intention to go together in one car. For the same matters do not necessarily have to run two or three vehicles while with one unit will suffice.
3. Switch to public transport such as busways, railway, or metrominis.
4. When a traffic jam, while out of town, you should stop first. Changing other activities such as rest, eat, go to the bathroom, or fill the fuel to decompose congestion.
5. Drive gently. Reduce the frequency of braking. When facing a red light does not need to step on the gas, let the car slide because they must be stopped. Reduce the frequency stepping on the gas and brakes. This is the step energy disposal in vain.
6. When sliding or decreased, gear should not be positioned at neutral. Engine brake effect proved more economical fuel than stationary.
7. Turn on the AC as needed.
8. Ask workshop setting appropriate timing according to the type of fuel used. Ignition point too forward or backward resulting wasteful of fuel.
9. Clean the air filters (can be done by yourself) per 2500 km, or depending on conditions.
10. Do not heat the car for too long, maximum 2 minutes. Warming-up machine for 30 minutes, synonymous with traffic for 30 minutes as well.
11. Find the route / alternative road is not jammed, out a little with the current path is more save.

Have you ever bothered with the appearance of strange noises from under your car? Of course very annoying and not make a bad mood? Usually, the noise is experienced by an old car over five years. The solution, take it to the mechanic and the mechanic will resolve the dispute. It’s easy,  isn’t it?

But for car owners who want to know the source of the sound before taking it to the shop, not to impress ‘fooled’ by the workshop, here are some parts that need to be checked to make sure:

1. Arm Bushing
   Characteristic sounds produced in this section is repeated loud squealing noise, especially when the wheels through a bumpy road. It’s a sign that the rubber is brittle aka no longer flexible and should be replaced with new ones.
2. Ball Joint
   The sound is heard in this section is when the tire up to a maximum deflected to the left or right, you will hear the sound of clashing metal. Handling can be given a fat / grease on the part, or replaced with new ones.
3. Bushing / Strut-Bar
   The voice is heard in this section is accompanied by the sound of clashing metal voice squeaking at the bottom of the front seat, which is more subtle than the sound of screeching at no. 1. The reason is the rubber strut-bar is brittle or broken. Replace with new ones immediately.
4. Bearing or ball bearing
   Characteristic buzzing sound is generated, a sign that the bearing is cracked or broken. If not promptly replaced, ball bearing wheels can come loose and it will be difficult to spin. The reason is the fat or oil has run out or damaged roads often pass in a high speed.
5. Stabilizer Link
   Voice ‘duk-duk’ smooth, both in front and behind, which arises because the rubber that has been broken. The cause is often passing in high-speed roads. Immediately replace with new rubber.
6. Tie-Rod Long
   The voice that arises also in the form ‘duk-duk’ fine underneath the front car, while car running. This is due to grease on the connection has been depleted and needs recharging.
7. Per Leaf Rear
   Screeching sound comes from this part dry and rusted. Overcome this problem by smearing each leaf with a lubricant or oil, or also slipped pieces of rubber inner tube between the plates per.
8. Shockbreaker
   Beep ‘jedhug’ will sound if the vehicle passing through a hole in a high speed. We felt it would also slashes hard, especially on the shockbreaker the dead.

Trends in the use of automatic transmission cars in Indonesia rose. Operation even easier than the manual, without the clutch. Nevertheless, it does not mean man can not make mistakes. And, the behavior of one can make the lifetime becomes shorter.

Transmission damage due to improper operation of only 10 percent, 85 percent of the largest oil change just due to negligence, while 5 percent due to the age of consumption.

There are minor omissions, negligence, although not fatal, to be the beginning of transmission damage. Like what is negligence?

• Do not move the lever to N. We stopped a long time in a traffic jam or a red light, sometimes the driver continues transmission rod in position D. This condition makes the transmission of extra work due to work as a limited supply of fresh air. If the stop of more than 60 seconds, immediately move the transmission to N so that lubricants do not increase dramatically.
• Step on the gas into the D. We sign up at the lights, so the sign is green, drivers often move the stick directly to D and direct the gas pedal. In fact, the transmission takes time to engage with the process fluid pressure to move toward the torque converter. If this habit is often done selenoid valve inside the transmission can be easily damaged.
• Frequently perform engine brake. To obtain the effect of engine brake, may be used in low gear. However, the displacement was made during the 3000 rpm engine speed. Because, if on top of that, there could be hard to reduce friction and wear life of the clutch friction within trasmisi.
• Move position from D to R. Move the gear lever from D to R (to parking) needs to speed his hand. However, if done roughly, the conventional transmission could result in damage to the planetary gear and one way clutch. While outside of the transmission components that are affected like the dc coupling cross joint, engine mounting and the axle (front wheel drive).
• Prevent the transmission in first gear. Needs engine brake on the street or down a steep incline on the road acceleration performance, one would need a tooth. But, this condition should only be done as necessary and unavoidable when dealing with normal road conditions (flat). Therefore, the burden increasingly heavy clutch. Moreover, if continued into high gear on a conventional automatic transmissions still use valves. Can make performance pedal parts behind the piston can be problematic due to excessive pressure.